by Stuart Robinson
Sourced from the Swaby Vineyard – up near the Botanic Gardens in the Adelaide Hills – a vineyard also used as a fruit source by Michael Hall, BK Wines and Yalumba.
Oxidative notes on the nose, giving that nuttiness and bruised apple complexity. The palate sees more of the same with an edge of saline acidity, the driving force of the wine.
It’s a style that will likely polarise, for sure it caught me off guard, but it’s a grower. A quality, if unconventional, wine – excellent length, a testament to the fruit quality. My only quibble is I would have liked a little more in the middle.
Piccadilly Valley, Adelaide Hills, SA
13.3%, Cork, $37 a bottle
Tasted: April 2015